FAQs

Shipping to the UK is free over £150 and is subsidised at £4.50 for items priced under. Please see the sections 'Shipping' and 'Returns' for further details and rest of world shipping details.

Due to Brexit and Trump we are not currently shipping to Europe or the US. Please contact us with any questions or if you really really want a pair shipping there (thank you).

When you are choosing what size to buy, generally from Hawksmill you can select the true size you require. 

We do sell the length with a little extra added – you can read the actual raw measurements in the size guide which you can find on each product page - you'll see the link near the add to cart button / select your size menu. This has diagrams and measurements of multiple points of the product so you can compare to the measurements of body or an existing pair of your jeans.

Our jeans do not have added stretch – they are 100% cotton. 

We produce three different fits:

Slim Taper - contemporary fit with low rise and narrow leg opening.

Loose Taper - a classic 5 pocket relaxed fit jean with tapered leg and mid length rise

NEW - LOOSE FIT - The Hawksmill Loose fit is our widest and most relaxed fit. The relaxed cut suits most body shapes, including people with muscular or bigger legs. It offers the most space in the thigh area, is straight cut with a medium to high rise waist. 

Each style has a size guide on the website with detailed measurements for waist, thigh, length, rise, leg opening etc.  For example, if you have quite muscular legs, the Loose Taper or Loose Fit will likely be a better fit than the slim taper cut.

If you would like some help choosing the size or fit from our range, we offer a free phone or email consultation. No pressure to buy of course. We are always up for a chat about our jeans and denim in general. Please drop us an email at enquiries [at] hawksmill.com to arrange one. 

You can also find detailed advice from Heddels on selecting your size of raw jeans at https://www.heddels.com/buying-first-pair-raw-denim-beginners-guide/ 

All or our jeans have been made with denim that have either been sanforized or rinsed so that when you first wash them they will have minimal shrinkage.

We mainly sell sanforized denim, which means the denim has been treated to so that it is ‘pre-shruk’ to minimise shrinkage when washed. They will still shrink a bit, say up to 4%. Through wear, the waist will pretty much stretch back to its original size, but any length lost, won’t.

We currently do sell an unsanforized Japanese denim but we have given it a light rinse so that shrinkage will still be minimal when you wash them.

You will always find these details on the product page of the website before you buy.

If you want your jeans shortened to a particular length, it’s risky to make the chop before their first wash as they may shrink shorter than you want. We really recommend you wait until after they have been washed to be accurate.

It’s also worth adding that most jeans can be expected to stretch or give a bit through wear. This totally varies depending on the amount of wear, the fit, the denim, the activity of the wearer and many other factors.

We don't sell them, but if your jeans are made with unsanforized denim that has not had any other treatments such as a rinse, you could expect them to shrink around 5-10% all over after the first wash.

Yes, as with any raw denim, it may do – up until its first proper wash you can expect some colour transfer from the jeans. Losing some of the colour through wear, is what helps make those desirable and personalised fades in parts of the jeans. This is why it's recommended to try to wear raw jeans for as long as possible (see washing notes) before washing - so that some of the dye will wear out rather than wash out uniformly all over.

You might experience the classic denim-lover blue legs, and beware that some indigo colour can transfer onto lighter fabrics if it comes into contact. Watch out with light colour sofas, trainers etc - specially if either jeans or the other item is damp. After a cool wash or two, this will happen less. If you have cream leather seats for example, you’d be advised to sit on a blanket or cool rinse wash your jeans before sitting on them directly.

Some people 'set' their dye with with a rinse of white vinegar, but this will also slow down creating fades so this is up to you to decide if you want colour retention or fades. https://denimhunters.com/denim-wiki/care-myths/vinegar/

We are proud that our size offer is wider than many huge brands.

We usually offer up to 10 waist sizes and now 3 leg lengths where possible –  up to 30 different sizes per style. We offer
‘in-between’ sizes when we make a full batch.

We usually offer 28”, 29”, 30”, 31”, 32”, 33”, 34”, 35”, 36”, 38" in waist size.

We are now offering 30”, 32”, 34” leg length options. 

Take a look at the size guide for each style to see the actual measurements for each size.

Sometimes, due to the limited quantities we can make, we cannot offer the full range of sizes in a certain product. Especially when we produce in small batches using rare, old, hand dyed, or deadstock fabric.

We also recommend some selvedge specialists below, who can shorten and hem your jeans using Union Special machines (after the first wash of jeans).

We are genuinely sorry if we do not stock your size. We are a very small independent, self-funded business and we can only produce within our financial, storage and production abilities. These are the sizes we find we sell, rather than sitting in storage.

Please wait until after your jeans’ first wash before shortening them or taking them in – as they will shrink a bit in length following the first wash.

If you want your jean leg shortened, we recommend going to someone with a vintage Union Special machine to replicate the authentic chain stitch that we use on the hem.

These machines are old and rare but there are a number of denim specialists around the country with them. 

Rivet and Hide in London actually have one of our old vintage Union Special machines to finish with chain stitching and we highly recommend them. rivetandhide.com

The Denim Doctor thedenimdoctor.co.uk is based in Manchester and also offers a great postal service. They have a vintage Union Special machine to add the chain stitch on the hem.

You can also seek local recommendations but be aware most won't be able to replicate the chain stitch on the hem.

We thoroughly recommend The Denim Doctor
thedenimdoctor.co.uk based in Manchester, they offer a great postal
service. They specialise in alterations and repairs on selvedge denim. They do
amazing repairs on common wears such as crotch blow out.

We love seeing how years of wear and repair add to the character of each pair of jeans. Take a look at images online of people’s
repairs, including Sashiko mending. For most denim heads, wears, fades and
repairs are a badge of honour and add to the beauty of the jeans.

Ask for word of mouth recommendations if you need to stay local. Some dry cleaners also offer repair services, but may not be denim specialists.

This is probably Hawksmill’s most frequently asked question

Our advice is to keep an eye on your jeans
and to gently wash when needed, and to make sure you do wash when needed.

This is more important than following any prescribed timetable of wear / wash etc. as it is completely different for every wearer,
depending on their use, fit, needs and many other variables.

NOTE - If you want to have your jeans taken up or adjusted, ideally PLEASE wash them first as they will shrink a little, particularly in
the length (the waist will give after washing through wear).

You may also choose you wish to give them a light wash if you need to avoid colour transfer (light colour seats etc).

Caring for raw denim jeans is a bit of a balancing act: washing them means some of the deep indigo colour will wash out (meaning less contrast between the areas faded through wear and the remaining darker indigo colour), but not washing them when needed means risk of real damage to the
actual fabric threads leading to holes and ‘blow outs’.

Raw denim gurus Heddels say “if you’re ever in doubt, you should probably wash your jeans”. Washing means using water and suitable gentle detergent.

For the purposes of giving general advice here, we will assume that you want your jeans to last you for years and to slowly develop some nice deep contrasts and fades in places, and for your jeans to not wear holes in prematurely.

We agree with the advice to not want to wash your jeans too much or too harshly – because you are washing some of the deep indigo colour out and won’t get so much contrast with the faded areas. Areas of fade
contrast is where colour has worn off rather than washed off. Most people advise to wear them ‘for as long as possible’ (particularly before your first wash) before you wash them, as the longer you can wait, the deeper the contrast in the fades. If you can wear them from new for several weeks before the first wash, you should find that some of the dye wears off in certain places (beware
of wearing your raw jeans coming into contact with light colours before they've
been washed as it is likely some colour transfer could occur - eg. careful with
light colour trainers, sofas, tops, bags, etc. You might want to stick with dark colours until that first wash.)

BUT crucially, when we say to wait ‘as long as possible’ it doesn’t just mean until they look or smell gross, but to keep a proper eye on them. Whilst we tend to wash most of our clothes far too often, washing does
more than just get rid of visible dirt and smells. Tiny bits of dirt and grease
can add to the wear of clothing, partly by adding to abrasion (rubbing). This
can greatly contribute to issues such as crotch blow out (where a small
abrasion turns to a small hole, then gets bigger and bigger in the groin). So
keep an eye on your jeans, if there is an area where they rub or crease
especially which is wearing quickly and causing threads to break – it’s
probably time to give them a gentle wash. You can try spot washing – that’s
hand cleaning the area that’s dirty or rubbing, or you can soak them (don’t
forget some indigo will likely seep out and could stain a bath, usually temporarily) or you can machine wash on a gentle (low spin, turn the number down), cool wash inside out. 

This should be cool water, they should be inside out. You might want to give them a gentle hand wash concentrating on the place they are particularly wearing. A machine is OK as long as it is cold (20 or cooler is best) and the spin is set low to avoid lots of creases caused by the machine and to minimise it knocking out the hard-earned creases you created through wear. Obviously, don’t stick them in with your lights wash – they will stain other stuff blue.

The drying process is important too. Don’t tumble dry them. Don’t tumble dry them. Don’t tumble dry them. Also, don't wring them (don't wring any clothes you like - you'll damage the fibres forever). Hang them to dry out of direct sunlight and direct heat but take the time to try and best
straighten out the small random creases from washing and help put them back into their natural shape (but try not to pull out your wear creases). You might want to do this a few times whilst they are drying.

We don’t really recommend dry cleaning jeans for various reasons. 

What about freezing your jeans? We think there are much better uses for your freezer space - (hello vegan sausage rolls) and not really any science to support this method of stopping your jeans from smelling:
https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/the-myth-of-the-frozen-jeans-129092730/

What detergent should you use - a nice gentle, eco friendly one. We might do a blog on some of our favourites. Tip: use half the
recommended dose of detergent for all your washing - your clothes, machine,
and wallet, will thank you. Don't use fabric softener. If you want to set your dye (and slow down fades) you can add some white vinegar.

A lot of this advice goes for most of your favourite items of clothing. You can make them last longer, look better and save a lot of water and energy if you don't over-wash your clothes. 

There is so much advice out there on forums and denim websites but our top advice is to keep an eye on them. The very best denim in
the world can still wear out quite quickly if not looked after and kept clean.

https://www.heddels.com/2014/10/6-signs-you-should-probably-wash-your-jeans/

We are trying to be as ethical and sustainable as we can. With every new product and design we are improving more. If we can't find a way to make a new design in a way we think is 'good' for the planet and people, we just don't make it.

We make ‘slow fashion’ in small batches, meaning no wasted stock. All of our products are designed to be worn year after year – not just last, but to actually improve with wear.  We select fabrics that should last well and improve with age – by this we mean fades and patinas that we think will look amazing. Details and production techniques are aimed at making them durable. 

In terms of style – we make classics that won’t date or go out of fashion as they are not trend based.

The fabrics we use are 100% natural fibre, which means they won’t shed plastic micro-fibres into the water system when they are washed or worn, which is a huge and growing issue. They can be recycled or upcycled at the end of their current life.  (As there is not yet a simple or viable way to separate mixed fibres - e.g. where cotton
is mixed with man-made fibres such as those used to add stretch in jeans or
polyester in jersey). It also means they They are also biodegradable (once things such as any non-biodegradable zips are removed) at the very end of their life. 

We are using certified organic cotton where possible – all of our jersey collection is organic and uses minimal water to grow.

We have worked with one of the world’s most innovate and sustainable denim mills to produce an exclusive organic selvedge raw denim. We are also looking to source other natural fibres that are even more environmentally friendly when they are available to us. We've introduced
an organic denim that includes a blend of nettle fibre (we all know how well
nettles grow with no need for watering). All of the yarns used for making our fabrics come with certification for being responsibly grown and produced, using less water etc.

We often use deadstock fabrics - forgotten ends of old rolls of amazing fabrics that would otherwise be unused (hit us up if you have any cool rolls of old fabric lying around).

We use Corozo buttons. These are made from a nut that is harvested when it falls from ancient natural rainforests, helping to preserve the forests. The harvesters are paid a living wage. The buttons are biodegradable. They help protect elephant herds. Our UK supplier plants trees
to offset any carbon from shipping the buttons here.

We only sell raw jeans, meaning they haven’t gone through chemical or manual treatment to fade or distress them. This means a lot of
water is saved in the process, and no harsh chemicals are used, which can be a
serious threat to the environment and people around the factories. Hand rubbed
denim can also harm workers with dust. This also means they will last YOU longer without needing to be repaired as they are not deliberately worn out.

The factories that we work with are in the UK or Europe. They are small, established, family run businesses that really look-after and
respect their workers. We visit them regularly and we trust them. They share our outlook of constantly trying to make their business more ethical and sustainable.

We are always looking out for ways to improve our sustainability, and it’s one of our major considerations when we are selecting
fabrics etc. We are always happy to hear from ethical suppliers that would like
to work with us.

Because we only make in small batches, we don’t produce excess, so we don’t do sales. (We occasionally sell our samples and last sizes at rare sample sales - join our mailing list for exclusive online access).

It rarely happens as we use top quality hardwear, but if you lose a Hawksmill button or some other hardware needs replacing, please drop us a line and we will send you a replacement. This even applies if you have bought the item second hand - we want our garments to live their longest lives possible.

Hawksmill Denim Co was founded in 2015 with the aim to make the best jeans possible.

Tony Smith and Donna Sibley are a duo with a long background in menswear, vintage clothing, independent retail, design and production. Co-founder, Tony Smith is a clothing and accessories production and design consultant. Starting out 28 years ago on Saville Row with Ozwald Boateng, and going on to consult for leading British heritage and luxury brands, working with traditional craft manufacturers. 

Co-director, Donna Sibley joined in 2020. She started working in fashion retail 28 years ago, mainly in menswear and vintage clothing. 

The two of them founded the British menswear brand, Thread in the early 2000’s, which sold in the UK’s leading independent stores for years. 

Both have a passion for skilled crafts, traditional production, and vintage products that have stood the test of time in their
durability, use and style. They share an ethos of working with good people, designing
and making product to last, using the best quality materials you can afford, always trying to improve, and not hurting people or the planet.

Original co-founder Fraser Trewick is concentrating on making fantastic music and remains a close friend.

Yes, Tony Smith has been a design and production consultant
for over 28 years. He has worked with many brands in the UK including Bella Freud, Folk, YMC, Stussy, Levis, Orlebar Brown, Lyle &
Scott, Richard James, Burro, Rae Feather, and Will Bees.

He works with the very best factories in the UK, Europe and the world. As well as denim and all areas of menswear, Tony specialises in designing and producing footwear and accessories collections.

Please email us if you are interested in our consultancy
services: enquiries [at] hawksmill.com